China, Jin dynasty (1115-1234) / Brocade with Djeiran Gazing at the Moon / 1115 - 1234China, Jin dynasty (1115-1234)
Brocade with Djeiran Gazing at the Moon
1115 - 1234

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Creator Nationality: Asian; Far East Asian; Chinese
Creator Dates/Places: China
Creator Active Place: China
Creator Name-CRT: China, Jin dynasty (1115-1234)
Title: Brocade with Djeiran Gazing at the Moon
Title Type: Primary
View: Full View
Creation Start Date: 1115
Creation End Date: 1234
Creation Date: 1115 - 1234
Object Type: Textiles
Materials and Techniques: tabby, brocaded; silk and gold thread
Dimensions: Overall: 109.8cm x 38.5cm
AMICA Contributor: The Cleveland Museum of Art
Owner Location: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
ID Number: 1991.4
Credit Line: Purchase from the J. H. Wade Fund
Context: One of the exciting recent discoveries in the field of early Chinese textiles is a group of silk and gold brocades woven during the Jin dynasty. This brocade of a djeiran gazing at the moon is typical of that group. The djeiran is a Central Asian antelope that was absorbed into the art of Song China and of the Jin dynasty. There, it was often associated with the xi'niu, a mythical rhinoceros. Particularly popular in the Jin culture, it appears in several other brocades as well as on the backs of mirrorsand on mirror stands. Here, the djeiran, recumbent among flowers and fungi, looks back and up at the full moon in the clouds. This scene is repeated in gold-brocaded units arranged in staggered horizontal rows. The orientation of the scenes to right or left alternates from one row to the next. Jin brocades have a particular structure that sets them apart from those woven elsewhere. The gold wefts used for the brocaded units were made of treated animal skin that was gilded and cut into flat strips. They were much heavier than the silk wefts used for the ground fabric. In order to prevent the silk ground around the brocaded areas from puckering as the gold wefts were inserted into the weave, silk wefts were floated from time to time across the reverse sideof the brocaded areas. Brocades such as this one were used for clothing worn by the Jin court. Their designs and brocading technique are very similar to the brocades found in the tomb of Prince Qi (dated 1162), a member of the Jurchen imperial family. A.W.
AMICA ID: CMA_.1991.4
AMICA Library Year: 1998
Media Metadata Rights: Copyright, The Cleveland Museum of Art

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